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Complacent Stylist: Using heat and additives during the color process

Saturday, 19 January 2019 by Darren Stork
Complacent Stylist: Using heat and additives during the color process

To start, I need to stay that science works the way science works. It doesn’t work the way we want it to, it works the way it’s supposed to. Chemistry doesn’t know all the variables from behind the chair, that’s where we come in. We adjust the formula accordingly so the chemistry can do what it’s supposed to do.

This past month has been a busy one with a ton of questions. I’ve realized that even though the situations are different, the questions have an underlying thread… we as stylist don’t care how science works, we just want it to do what we want it to do lol 🙂

I am no chemist. I enjoy science and find it really interesting. I can’t pronounce 75% of the words, but I’ve come to a basic understanding of how chemistry contributes to why things aren’t working at the salon. This is the reason I make the recommendations that I do and is why I started writing these posts.

I know that with a bit of insight, we can tackle these repeating scenarios. With that said, let’s start with these heat and additive related issues.

1. “I put her under the dryer for 40 minutes and she barely lifted.”

The short answer, the oxidation process is the release of oxygen. Heat sucks up all the oxygen in that area. Your formula dried out and could not do its job anymore so it stopped working.

Developer, which is made of hydrogen peroxide, is what diffuses natural melanin in the hair to make room for artificial pigment. It is usually liquid or cream which are moist. Color has ammonia or whatever substitute which is designed to open the cuticle to allow the artificial pigment to enter the hair shaft and deposit said color. Color is also usually liquid or cream which is moist. See the pattern? 

Moisture is water or other liquid diffused in a small quantity as vapor, within a solid, or condensed on a surface. Thank you dictionary for that. When we are waiting for color to process, the process is only as good as the amount of moisture the product has. During the oxidation process, oxygen is being released naturally over time, which is causing the formula to dry out. Adding heat sources such as dryer, lamps, etc. is adding to the evaporation of oxygen which is making your formula weaker faster.

2. “I used bond builder with bleach and her hair still fried.”

You must properly evaluate the condition of the client’s hair before moving forward with a process that is aggressive such as high lift, lightening, or bleaching. If the hair is already heavily compromised, then not even a bond builder will prevent catastrophic results.

So, have an intervention. Improve the condition of the hair first and then move forward with the service and bond builder.

I do have a point of contention with bond builders. I know the point of bond builders is to strengthen and improve the quality of hair, especially during the coloring process… it does work. However, I also know that there has to be bonds left in the hair for a bond builder to work. When your client has blasted their hair shaft and cuticle to the high heavens, then what is left to put back together? That’s a rhetorical question, there is nothing! Absolutely Nothing! 

Try and think how many deep conditioning treatments and repair/restorative products are out there. Over 9000! Why is there so many? We know the hair is going to get wrecked by the client at home after we painstakingly took the time to achieve the look they wanted while trying not to compromise the condition of their hair. 

Solution, use the Keratin Infused Deep Conditioning Masque from Keratherapy or Protein Complex from All-Nutrient. Get the hair to a healthy state of condition first so when you use something like TruePlex Bamboo Miracle Bond Builder or All-Nutrient Lightener Control, then the products can actually do what they are designed to do…work!

Tune in next week for 2 more scenarios for us to work through.

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  • Published in Hair Care, Hair Coloring, Hair Products, Hair Salon, Hair Styling, Hair Tips, science
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Why Exercise Is Damaging Your Client’s Hair and How to Prevent It

Thursday, 09 August 2018 by Darren Stork

While women exercise they want their hair secure and out of their face. The hair is usually thrown in a bun or ponytail and off they go. It’s also very likely that it’s the same ponytail or bun every time… because humans are creatures of habit.

As a stylist, you are likely cringing at this point because you can begin to see the damage that can come while your clients get their calorie burn on.

Ask your clients about their hair routine while they exercise and turn it into an education on damage and prevention. Plus, I’m going to make this super easy for you by breaking it down into easily explainable chunks.

Let’s begin with the damage talk. Explain to your client that hair cuticles are cells that overlap like fish scales. When the hair is healthy and smooth those scaly cells fit nicely on top of each other. When those cells don’t lay smoothly it causes these 3 signs of damage.

  1. Frizz – Dry and bleached hair is caused by exposure to UV light.
  2. Split Ends – These unflattering ends are caused by too much sun exposure and sweat.
  3. Breakage – Women who exercise a lot may find that their hair is breaking at the place their hair tie lies.

Now, onto the prevention part. Here are 5 things to share with your client to prevent damage to their hair while they exercise.

  1. Wear your hair differently each time you workout. That way, you’re not pulling at the same spot all the time, causing breakage.
  2. Wearing your hair in a loose bun or braid to avoid matting and contact with sweaty skin. Tangles and sweat cause your hair to dry out.
  3. Use hair ties made of ribbon or fabric. Saying no to elastic makes sure the hair isn’t too tight.
  4. Run early in the morning or late in the afternoon. This way you avoid the sun’s most harmful UV rays.
  5. Use a conditioning and/or keratin treatment occasionally to keep hair, hydrated and strong.

Lastly, you can use this prevention chat to pitch a hydration product or a smoothing service. By expressing what to look for and how to prevent damage, your exercising clients will thank you with their loyalty.

breakagedamageexercisefrizzhaircarehydrationproduct pitchsplit ends
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  • Published in Hair Care, Hair Products, Hair Salon, Hair Styling, Hair Tips, Lifestyle, science, shiny hair
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Savvy Stylists Use this Easy Pitch

Thursday, 09 August 2018 by Darren Stork
Savvy Stylists Use this Easy Pitch

Pitching products can get an audible groan in a room full of stylists, but it doesn’t have to.

Here’s an easy lead-in to introduce and pitch products to your clients. Not to mention, it’s an easy chance to share your exceptional knowledge.

As your clients prepare for travel and vacation they head to their local drugstore to stock up on travel sized bottles and products. This is where your opportunity lies… yep, their summer toiletry bag.


Easy pitch topic: Vacation and travel

As you engage your client’s on their upcoming travel plans its easy to bring up sun protection, frizz-inducing weather, chlorine protection and, of course, looking fantastic for those Instagram worthy pics.

You have the trained knowledge of what they should use to look fabulous and keep their hair healthy on their trip. Don’t let them walk aimlessly at the drugstore and guessing what small sized product would work best.

Introduce a suggestion or two and explain why they would be especially useful to your client as they travel. Free samples can also help in this situation. As well as product sizes that are travel appropriate.

Again, remember that you are the expert and have a ton of knowledge to share. In turn, this insight is a simple lead into pitching a product fit for the situation.

You could even offer to fit them in for a keratin treatment before they leave. That way they have lasting smooth locks that battle any weather they may face. This is what savvy stylists do and now you can too!

I’m curious, what do you find most difficult about pitching products and services to your clients?

pitchingproductssalonsellingservicestipstrainingtravelvacation
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  • Published in Hair Care, Hair Products, Hair Salon, Hair Styling, Hair Tips, Holiday Hair
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6 Stunning Benefits of Hair Smoothing Treatments

Wednesday, 01 August 2018 by Darren Stork
Smooth Hair

Gone are the days of hair being forced to be straight and smooth. Japanese straightening treatments permanently alter the hair’s structure. Instead, Keratin treatments create a healthy protein layer around the hair shaft. This smoothes the cuticle and makes the hair smoother, softer and manageable. But that’s not all Keratin Smoothing can do. Here are 6 amazing benefits of these incredible smoothing treatments.

  1. Smoothing benefits last 3-5 months.

    Brazilians are another type of hair smoothing treatment, but it can clog the scalp and only lasts 3 months. On the other hand, Keratin smoothing contains less harsh chemicals and silicones and lasts 3-5 months.

  2. It has a deep conditioning effect.

    Keratin treatments add a protein layer around the hair shaft and in turn smoothes the cuticle. This enhances moisture balance and controls static. This deep conditioning effect provides shine, softness and frizz control.

  3. It contains chemicals and silicones that are less harsh and have minimal fumes.

    Now, here’s where we need to get specific. Not all keratin treatments are created equal. Keratin treatments use less harsh chemicals than a Brazilian, but it is Keratherapy that has fewer fumes than its keratin competitors. Fewer fumes mean happier clients and a happier you.

  4. There is no demarcation line as hair grows out.

    Keratin treatments seal the cuticle instead of changing the hair structure. Hair grows out naturally without that awful demarcation line. In fact, it extends the life of colored hair.

  5. The continuum of keratin treatments allows for curl calming control.

    Keratin treatments also calm curl… the stronger the treatment the stronger the curl reduction. The great thing is that you have control over this. Keratherapy has a continuum of treatment so that you can choose which treatment is right for your client. Maybe your client wants the smoothing effect without losing their curl, that is a need that can be met by these incredible treatments.

  6. Hair proteins are built back up after being stripped over time.

    By sealing the cuticle, keratin treatments prevent breakage, rebuilds damaged hair, promotes elasticity, protects from heat, and mends split ends.

Does this all sounds too good to be true? I’ll prove it to you. Attend our Keratherapy certification class and see the transformational power of Keratin treatments.

benefits of smoothingbraziliancurl controlcuticledemarcationfrizzhairhair smoothinghydrationkeratherapyKeratin+smoothingtreatment
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  • Published in Hair Care, Hair Products, Hair Salon, Hair Styling, Hair Trends, science
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NEW! All-Nutrient Name This Stuff
Sunday, 01 March 2015 by Darren Stork

PRESENTING: ALL-NUTRIENT NAME THIS STUFF

All-Nutrient recently unveiled a revolution breakthrough in hair technology with a new patent-pending product that will transform the way you do hair. It’s an all-in-one wonder formula that smooths, defrizzes, relaxes & repairs the hair. This instant keratin smoothing treatment is specially formulated with keratin amino acids and proteins that change the bonds, repair the hair and lock in haircolor. Works on all styles and has a cumulative that lasts!

 

All Nutrientstyling products
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  • Published in Hair Products, Hair Styling
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10 REASONS TO LOVE ERGO BRUSHES
Thursday, 22 January 2015 by Darren Stork

Behold! The Power of the ERGO Brush

[styled_list2 style=”list-ol”]

  •  No slip grip. For those of us who get sweaty palms while performing a fabulous blowout. {Nervous, much?!}
  •  Hair doesn’t get caught in any nooks and crannies.
  •  Larger barrel so we can take bigger sections. Who doesn’t want to be done faster? Time is money!
  •  Magically smooths hair!!
  •  Tension is great on all hair textures.
  •  All the brushes give great results.
  •  Paddle brush great for curly hair. Gets close to the scalp for a straight smooth look.
  •  Small brushes great for needed volume, large brushes great for extra body.
  •  Very versatile. Any hair style, anytime, anywhere.
  •  Less strain on the wrist.

[/styled_list2]

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  • Published in Hair Products, Hair Trends
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ALL-NUTRIENT STYLE RECIPE: BEACH TEXTURIZING SPRAY

Wednesday, 21 August 2013 by Darren Stork

ALL-NUTRIENT STYLE RECIPE: BEACH TEXTURIZING SPRAY
On both guys and gals…nothing looks better than the kind of wild, hyper-textured you only get after a day at the beach. The sea salt and sun combine to create loose, carefree waves that just don’t happen anywhere else. There are lots of off the shelf products you can use to recreate this look in-salon…but it’s actually incredibly easy to mix yourself and then be able to recreate the effect in salon or at home!

WHAT YOU NEED:
An empty spray bottle, sea salt (Himalayan Salt works best), coconut oil (or any oil of your choice), All-Nutrient Organics Gel+, measuring cup and teaspoon.

1: Fill a spray bottle with 1 teaspoon of sea salt. We recommend Himalayan Sea Salt, which is finely ground and contains a high amount of natural minerals.

2: Next add ½ teaspoon of coconut oil. You can use virtually any kind of oil…however coconut oil is reminiscent of the beach and is also loaded with nutrients. If coconut oil isn’t your thing…merely substitute for another.

3: Lastly add ½ teaspoon of All-Nutrient Organics Gel+. This is just for hold to keep the wavy texture to stay in place throughout the day. For increased hold…just increase the amount of gel to your mixture.

4: Close the spray bottle and shake vigorously. Spray it on damp or dry hair and scrunch the hair up towards the head to create waves. The next day, before each application, just shake the spray bottle vigorously again as the mixture will separate if sitting for a while.

Done! Beach hair without the beach!

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Crack Hair Treatment: Your Defense Against Summer Heat

Friday, 06 July 2012 by Darren Stork
Crack Before & After

Let’s face it, if you live in the Midwest, this past week has been hot and sticky and (although we like it better than winter). And with heat and humidity, not only is your makeup melting, but your hair is starting to get frizzy and curly.

If you notice that your style is only lasting the first few hours of the day due to the hot, sticky temperatures, Crack Hair Treatment is just the fix you’ve been waiting for.

While other frizz-busting products only mask the signs of dry, frizzy hair, Crack Hair Fix actually works as a treatment. It has been praised in Allure and Beauty Launchpad magazine and is a staple for stylists across the country.

How Does it Work? 

Packed with micro proteins and peptides, Crack envelopes each hair cuticle with a keratinous bond that blocks 95% of frizz and curl. This powerful cocktail of proteins and peptides also heals dry, split end prone hair.

Benefits of Crack Hair Treatment:

  • UVA/UVB protection
  • lightweight, moisturizing treatment
  • Acts as a thermal protectant (Great for use with Ergo tools)
  • Won’t leave hair oily/no product build-up
  • Adds a healthy shine to dry hair
  • Effectively conceals split ends
  • Tames frizz and curl all day long
How do I Order Crack:?
Crack Hair Treament is an excellent product for any client because it both works as a styling aid and also a leave-in conditioner. To order Crack for your salon, call us at 847-741-5000.
Crack Hair Treatment
Crack hair treatmentErgo Styling ToolsFrizzy HairHairs the Bling
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  • Published in Hair Care, Hair Products, Hair's the Bling
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