Kick out the Polar Vortex with Hot Chocolate!
With record freezing temperatures comes a desire for greater warmth. Mimicking the rich, soulful and depth found in a steaming glass of hot chocolate, All-Nutrient presents their take on the perfect formula and technique for the client who wants to “warm things up” a bit and take the chill out of her tresses.
Correcting super-dark color build-up on the mid-lengths and ends can be a challenge. You can run lightener through wet hair, but if the client wants to maintain length, avoid using a permanent color after removing the dark build-up. To add long-lasting warmth, use ammonia-free Keratint. Three formulas within a level or two of one another will create a softened light-to-dark transition.
THE FORMULA:[styled_list style=”bullet_list” variation=”black”]
- Mix 1 scoop of All-Nutrient White Lightener + 1 tsp. All-Nutrient Pure Oil with equal parts 20-volume developer. Section out the darker hair from the occipital down. (At the sides, the parting should occur about one inch over the ears.) Brush the formula onto the damp hair and wait until warm undertones appear—about 10-15 minutes. Then rinse thoroughly, shampoo and towel blot.
- Mix 20 grams Keratint 4CH with 20 grams of Demi Developer (Zero Lift.) Apply to all the previously lightened hair below the occipital.
- Mix 20 grams Keratint 5CH with 20 grams of 10-volume developer. Apply the formula from the apex down the top, back and sides, stopping when you reach formula 2. Leave the hair in front of the apex untouched.
- Mix 20 grams Keratint 6CH with 20 grams of 10-volume developer. Apply to the front, from the apex toward the front hairline. This is a wide triangular area with the base of the triangle toward the front. Process all three formulas for 25-30 minutes. Then emulsify with water to soften the lines between formulas, rinse thoroughly and finish with All-Nutrient Colorsafe Conditioner.
If the hair is longer in back, use it as the basis of a diagonal-forward cut to thicken ends and add movement. Chip into the ends randomly for a fringed effect, then add a long, asymmetrical side bang. Blow dry with All-Nutrient mousse, then flat iron, misting each section with All-Nutrient Kiwi Freeze hairspray before applying heat. Alternately, create random curls using a 1-inch conical curling iron.
Credits: Color by Michael J. Kunz, Regional Education Director for All-Nutrient. Cut and styling by Frances DuBose, London Hair, Charleston, SC.
Glazing Freehand with Gloves
Occasionally we encounter highlights at the base that have gone too light and strong. Glazing the base is a great way to make a beautiful end result. Product Club’s jet black disposable gloves are perfect for this technique. The black color hides the stains and the longer cuff length gives you added protection. By applying the glaze to the base and using the gloved hand to pull random bits of the glaze through the hair, you can soften the result and have a more sophisticated finish. If you’re a salon in the Midwest and are interested in Product Club, contact us at Hair’s the Bling at (800)279-4554 or visit: www.hairsthebling.com